Ko Pha Ngan/Ko Tao, Thailand

I got used to being alone of Ko Pha Ngan. It was nice. I was surrounded by unnatural beauty (because natural beauty to me is the bladerunner scene on the way down to LaPorte, Texas) and had the playground for the future of Europe to mingle in. Meet only five other Americans down there, a couple of which (fratboys) I wish I didn't meet. Seriously, who after paying 40 bhat for a street pad thai says "khap kun khup, bitch?" If you are going to insult someone look them in the eyes and say it in a language they can understand.

The Full Moon Party was... I got tired on the same party every night leading to the event, so skipped out from the festivities for a while. They bought in extra sound systems for the big night and boated folks in from the neighboring islands. The only thing different from the other nights I spent there was the beach was better zoned. The raves, drug dealers, police, harbor, lifeguards, drunk college kids, and more ravers each had their own little area. I was alone and was taking it easy that night, but my johnny black was a little too strong, which put me in a bad mood the rest of the night.

I got respect for the Thai DJs running the decks on the beach. Who knew you could turn dance music into a cottage industry. The DJs here only have one bag of CDs/records so I got sick of the music quick: it was predominately a combination of club hip-hop and Euro club/trance. I would have gladly lost my mind and shook my ass to some Solid Groove (best dance music of 2006!) drums, but alas. But think about it... These kids don't have exactly Oink accounts set up on their satellite internet and they can't exactly run to the local record store on their remote tropical island when they choose. The DJ at the old school drum and bass club spins vinyl that cost, what 7 quid each, when originally purchased. Given the issues with currency exchange rates and location, these guys are holding it down. As a side note: Some of the Thai fire spinners project rockstar better then Axl Rose did before he got fat.

I got on a ferry to Ko Tao the next morning... I've taken up snorkeling. That might not sound big, but if you consider that I am a terrible swimmer and water deeper then the crown of my head scares me paralytic, it is a big thing. Ko Tao is the smallest of the 3 major southern Thai islands and is known worldwide for fantastic diving. I even considered taking a diving course... I know this traveling thing is about conquering my fears, but let's be reasonable. The first time I went snorkeling was on a boat tour of Ko Pha Ngan where I strapped on a life vest, tried to figure out how to breathe through a tube, put on a mask, held on the to side of the boat, stuck my head underwater and subsequently panicked...

In Ko Tao the water is clear and in the protected coves the fish will swim up to you if you are wading and take a nip off your legs to see if you are still awake. Spent a night in Laim Than where I just watched from the surface and then donned the snorkel again in Tanote Bay. I started slowly with just sitting on the sand and practiced breathing and ended a few trips into the water later when I lost my snorkel in deep water and scratched up my knees trying to get onto a nearby rock. It is so beautiful and peaceful underwater just like the aquarium a the dentist's office, but this time no one is going to drill holes into my skull.

There are only two times in Thailand where I really hungered for company. The first was the dinner before the Full Moon Party and second was when I without my camera and this huge two foot long fish, green and all the other colors of the rainbow. As the gay German tourist said to me in Koh Samui when I asked if he minded if I sit and watch the sun set, "Somethings are just too beautiful to be alone."